Chris Walker Vs. Getting To Know Your Negroni
Photo: Chris Walker
After posting Chris Walker Vs. Disappointment at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon, and a Brief Rumination on West Coast Cocktail Culture, Paulius Nasvytis, proprietor of the Velvet Tango Room, and I engaged in a brief dialogue about bad bartending, the importance of measuring when building a cocktail, and, of course, our love of the classic cocktail, the Negroni. Paulius writes an all-too-infrequent newsletter for patrons of the VTR and our exchange inspired him to write the following, a sort of love letter to the Negroni. I asked Paulius if I could repost it here on the Versus; he said yes, as long as I fixed his spelling errors. So, here you are: the history of the Negroni, the dangers of “free-pouring”, and enough cocktail musings to make you run out to a bar (or the liquor store) immediately after reading.
Greetings VTR Cocktalians!
One of my favorite cocktails of all time is the “Negroni”. It was out of favor (at least by trendsetters) for a number of years but, is again gaining popularity. Here is a brief history of this European cocktail:
The Negroni, the signature Campari cocktail, has been an international favorite for more than a century. It was invented in the early 1900s by a Florentine aristocrat, Count Camillo Negroni. The Count asked a bartender to add some bite to his preferred cocktail, the Americano*.
With the addition of gin, an instant classic was conceived, baptized, and the “Negroni” became the Count’s new favorite.
A brief note on Campari itself. Originating as a “digestif” (an herb and macerated fruit concoction said to aid digestion), Campari is the world’s top-selling “bitter”. It was introduced in 1860 in Milan. Gaspare Campari developed and perfected his bold red creation using more than 60 natural ingredients, with the moderately bitter flavored Italian blood orange as the predominant fruit. It can be consumed on its own, and used in cocktails as well.
The Negroni is an extremely complex cocktail. It is bitter, sweet, and spicy. Made with gin and red vermouth, the introduction of Campari to this unusual combination is decisive and very assertive in the making of a first-rate Negroni. The addition of a few drops of our orange bitters gives it extra spice. The Negroni is a wonderful aperitif cocktail, as it really wakes up the taste buds. Really wakes them. It is a fine digestif, as well, with the natural herbal ingredients. Last Saturday night, one of our Cocktailians described his Negroni as, “a helluva guy that you want to hang out with but, under no circumstance introduce your girlfriend to.” I think that pretty much sums it up.
Now, for the technicalities. A Negroni is equal parts gin, red vermouth, and Campari. It sounds simple, and if that is indeed what you get, you won’t be disappointed. Problems arise with bartenders “speed-pouring” and not accurately measuring the ingredients. The Campari’s thicker viscosity causes it to pour much slower, so if the cocktail is “free-poured”, and not measured, it will not be well balanced, due to not enough Campari. Also, it is traditionally spiced up with orange bitters (call me if you need a bottle) and a burnt orange peel garnish. This garnish is very important, as flaming the essential oils from the peel into the glass creates a thin “oil slick” on the top layer of the cocktail. This is just enough to lightly tap your palate with every sip. Vermouth is also significant. At the VTR, we use a very unique vermouth made by the Quady vineyards in California called “VYA”. It is magnificent, and I have it available retail if you like, both white and red versions. The information is on our menu. Vermouth needs to be stored CHILLED IN THE FRIDGE, and it’s shelf life, once opened, is about 10 days.
The third component, gin, should be assertive, but not overpowering. Plymouth, Bombay, Old Raj and Tanquerey work well. Hendricks (too delicate) or Rangpur (too limey) – not so much.
The VTR’s “Tango Negroni”, like the VTR Manhattan, is made with our own proprietary version of vermouth. By definition, vermouth is a fortified and spiced wine. We do make our own such wine, but it can’t legally be called “vermouth”, per se. As you know, we are purists when it comes to ingredients, and the international torchbearers of the classic cocktail. I consider the use of this to be legit, as it is still a “fortified wine” and not something else that would fundamentally change the cocktail, thus no longer it being a Negroni. A Negroni is not something to be trifled with by the dilettante barkeep. It is also not for everyone. It has a deep and full and complex flavor profile. It is a kinky assault to the palate.
And it should not be dumbed-down and made into a sugary sweet mutation. No! No! No! Say “no” to the Bologney Negroni!
So now, on this unseasonably warm early Wednesday morning, I’m so craving a Negroni! (When we all know that a Ramos Gin Fizz is the proper “morning cocktail”.) By the way, Campari mixes well with fresh squeezed orange juice, too. Campari and ginger or tonic in a big tall glass makes a sparkly and refreshing summer sipper, particularly when you squeeze in a large piece of lemon or two.
* The Americano is made with equal parts red vermouth and Campari, garnished with both lemon and orange twists.
Perhaps the only things Paulius failed to mention are: 01. “Free-pouring” can also result in too much Campari, the bitter flavor overpowering the drink. 02. You’ve got to specify whether you want your Negroni “up” or “on the rocks.” Too often, I order a Negroni and it comes on ice when I wanted it without. Regardless, I don’t know about you but I’m ready for a drink… and a trip to Cleveland.
LINKS:
The Velvet Tango Room (New Site)
Paulius also sent me a link to a thread he started on eGullet you all might be interested in checking out:
New Formula Campari, nooooooooooo
Posted: March 2nd, 2009 | Author: Chris Walker | Filed under: Alcohol | No Comments »
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